Surfing

Surfing

Nice wave at Playa San Miguel

It was Tom’s wish for this trip that I learn to surf so that I could join him on the countless mornings (and afternoons) that he heads down to the beach to catch waves. Now, I can goof around on a big longboard and call it surfing, but I am not good at it. I have not spent enough time on a board in the water to be able to read the waves consistently, put myself in the right place to pick one up and then ride it standing and turning back to the beach. Because for a long time I have felt that not really knowing how to surf was a hole in my water education and since I love being in the ocean and enjoy an athletic challenge, now is the time to do it.

Tom and friend Bill post surf: 7am

The good part about learning how to surf in Costa Rica is that the water is so deliciously warm that there is no shock, no hesitation about going in and getting cold doesn’t eventually chase you out. The water is also brilliantly clear so the marine biologist in me gets a thrill most times we’re out when I am granted a visit by a school of rainbow runners or young roosterfish. Occasionally, I can see straight to the bottom even way out past the breakers and catch a glimpse of a sleety blue stingray or blunt-nosed cow ray resting on the sand.

Closeout wave at Playa San Miguel

 The harder part of learning to surf, is everything else. I am using a short board for the first time which is surprisingly narrow and very tippy. I can paddle out through the waves, wait for the right one and paddle into it and catch it, but this is when the trouble starts. You are supposed to then quickly pop up from your stomach to feet and then glide, turning to keep ahead of the curl to extend your ride. Standing on this new surfboard is like trying to get to your feet on a piece of plastic the width of a laptop that is balanced on a roller that is spinning down a bumpy hill at ten miles an hour.  Inevitably, I get into a low crouch and then as I start to stand, go flying off in any random direction. For me, a long ride is two seconds, maybe three. Fortunately, the churning waves are forgiving—and warm—and the board usually shoots out in front or to the side and I haven’t yet been clobbered by it.

Me, still smiling, at Playa San Miguel

So I keep paddling out and picking up waves and bit by bit am finding my balance. I imagine that each ride I stand a little longer or ride a little farther. Today I had two rides that could be described as slightly controlled falls so I’m pretty pleased.  

Sunset light through a late afternoon wave